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London Men Fashion Week:FW13

A model walks the catwalk during the Alexander McQueen show

Alexander McQueen: Catwalk - London Collections: MEN AW13

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Alexander McQueen F/W 2013

A remarkable return to the homeland. Alexander McQueen just opened it Men’s flagship store on Savile Row where its has a real engagement to the brand, McQueen started his career more than two decades ago on Savile Row. Unsurprisingly, Sarah Burton chose to present the collection in hyper-tailored tradition but we were amazed with the styling, plastic masks, android theme which was reall contrast to wooden salon’s atmosphere that really haunting and unforgettable. What will you ask for when you say Alexander McQueen?

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JW Anderson F/W 2013

You might know that I am a fan of JW Anderson since his extravagance Men collection for S/S 13 which he brought us to the world of cross-gender. It is still around for his F/W collection. He presented something unforgettable, the frill, the mini skirts, the sweet frill knee-length boots. We won’t say that half of collection will be sold out but at least we will remember JW Anderson name for his boldness of vision on Menswear.

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Tom Ford F/W 2013

A very much one rooted in the early Sixties.  As usual, the show is not published in elsewhere but some shots from its collection. According to Vogue.co.uk  “I love a wide-cropped coat and there’s an anglophile aesthetic,” elaborated the designer as a series of models stepped out in front of a table full of ties in rainbow shades, coats and jumpers perfectly stacked or hung beside them. First enlightening us into how to reduce the size of one’s head, it’s all about lapel-to-head ratio apparently, Ford quickly moved onto explaining that this season is one that revolves around a “truer” silhouette – but that doesn’t mean tight. Think slim-line and streamlined – a rollneck beneath a suit jacket instead of a shirt, or a waistcoat cut slightly higher to elongate the frame.

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Jonathan Saunders F/W 2013

Apart from his skillful in colorful technic, this collection showed off his clear vision on silhouette and tailor which are fit it perfectly for men. The layer of color were subtle in appropriate rhythm but not only the styling, the tailor it self look really worth to be in his groupie. The collection was shown with painting installation background, perfectly matched.

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Christopher Kane F/W 2013

Clean with contrast. Personally, I really love to wear this collection. I love skinny pants, black&white, cruel printing motif and big volume of knit or tailor. Noted that he transform some from his women’s collection. It is shown a major trend for being androgyny and I love it. It is clean, modern and really focus. I would say almost guys will be looking good on it.

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Katie Eary F/W 2013

“The most vivacious show of the season so far – collection was refreshing, uplifting and hugely covetable” a huge compliment from Scarlett Kilcooley-O’Halloran, vogue.co.uk.

Like Scarlett quote in her review that ” If you had asked us before the show how to give fuchsia flowers a dark undertone it would have been hard to imagine” Yes, me too.  However, from the results we saw on the runway, the collection was so fresh, vivacious and not so faminine as we thought, from its styling and some design elements. British never fail to deliver something beyond ( digital printing ) boundary!

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Savile Row F/W 2013 presentation

“the Savile Row presentation  served as a poignant reminder as to why British menswear is what it is. Staged as a series of still-life sequences, models stood by fires wearing shooting field coats by Holland & Holland, leaned nonchalantly on balustrades decked out in Hardy Amies, wandered around stealthily in Gieves & Hawkes, read the papers in Anderson & Sheppard– one leg cocked on the other knee to show off a John Lobb shoe, and sat around a rather decadent dinner table, resplendent in formal dinner suits by Edward Sexton. It had panache, it had sophistication, and it emanated elegance” according to Vogue.co.uk.

It is really a good time to exhibit the heritage of british tailoring through this presentation. Just wonder what is going when it come up with trend and seasonal. However, another 6 months to come, game will be changed accordingly but the rich of heritage will last forever. Salute Savile Row.

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Just a second week of 2013 but it seem that the long rally has been started with the kick off of London Men Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2013 for second season. The first fashion week resulted in increasing of many figure for British fashion business. Many of fashion houses received lots of attention and order from worldwide.So, why not for second season. Its fashion week will fit perfectly to Milan Men Fashion week This week, the most anticipated shows must be Alexander McQueen which moved from Milan back to London and first runways ever for Tom Ford Men.

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Speaking in this weekend’s Times Magazine , Ford added that his decision to shift format was down to the vast expansion of Tom Ford stores around the world. “The company has jumped and I can no longer service the stores by not showing. So I have to love it and embrace it,” he explained

As for his decision to show in London, Ford admitted that it was down to personal reasons more than anything. “I hope it works here [in London], because my dream goal is to raise my children here,” he said, referring to his newborn son with long-term partner Richard Buckley, Alexander John, and hinting that plans to add to their brood are afoot.

“I’m very old fashioned, When I was little, I was brought up to say, ‘Hello, Mr Ford’, ‘Hello Mrs so-and-so’, ‘Sir and ma’am’. I want that for my children,” he added. “I’m only here 180 days [of the year], but I like the humour, the formality, the manners, the irreverence in England.”

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Craig Green: one to watch

However, you will be amazed by lots of brilliant new talents from London which is the best cities for studying in fashion. Many of graduated students will present their collections. I just wish that there will show off some new idea beside bold digital prints which were already exploited with its London’s talents on Womenswear.

Let’s start with

Lou Dalton

Lou Dalton F/W 2013

Veteran British Designer for her famous contemporary classicism. According to vogue.co.uk ” The former Royal College of Art graduate took inspiration from the North Sea oil boom in the Seventies and played with the idea of an American oil baron who wants to buy a remote Scottish village and build an oil port in its place as her protagonist of choice”. What a story. I love her square-toe boots that she collaborated with  heritage bootmakers Grenson which its style really attract me since I just start feeling comfortable to wear high boots.

Topman design

Topman Design F/W 2013

“A hint of early gentleman explorer” really point the weather of Topman Design’s Gordon Richardson. Somehow, it completely distracted from the current and boldness of youth from previous season. The styling made it come up to date again. This collection will be good choices for stylists and some for adventurous personalities.

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Meadham Kirchhoff F/W 2013

Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff show us their “End of the world’s vision” Few pieces presentation, some pieces were remarkable, some were off track but they showed of their talents and clear vision of their world which we have to absorb the ambience and feel it. Personally, I like the rubber jacket ( on the left side ). I would love to match them with turtle neck , red-white stripe and grey baggy jeans, surely not for me.

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    Richard Nicoll F/W 2013

I almost pass Richard Nicoll, gotta admit, but after I look all the pieces. The only one that off for me was turquoise blue sweater, the rest is awesome. I love to wear jumpsuit, I love to wear dark navy slash marine blue slash grey. It is my weapon palette, lol. It is also glad to see bold orange with tone down grey. I will survive one more season.

Photo : Courtesy to Vogue.co.uk. / Stuart Wilson/Getty Images for McQueen

Full show, please click on vogue.co.uk 

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